Great piece, Vic. Could not agree more. Finding a sharpening method that was quick and agreeable enough to sharpen OFTEN has been, by far, the biggest game changer for me. I'm much happier and productive with hand tools using my current method. Can I get my tools slightly sharper other ways? Yes. Does help my work? No. It's usually actually a net negative, in terms of time and enjoyment lost.
Amen. I'm still using my first set of stones, which require soaking .. I have a sink in my shop but that extra step is just enough to keep me from sharpening as often as I should. Stropping helps. But at some point I'll switch to spray-and-go.
And while I don't love to admit it, switching from a series of Eclipse guides (a Chinese clone, a Japanese clone, an authentic one) to the Lie-Nielsen guide made a huge difference in the quality and consistency of my edges. It really is worth the money, at least for me.
Eclipse clones can be made to work well, and are a great choice for budget-minded woodworkers. The L-N version maintains the simplicity of use with better quality. Both help to keep your sharpening consistent.
I'm reading this while eating lunch after a morning in the shop. I'm working with oak and noticed that my plane wasn't cutting well. So I stopped and sharpened and it began to cut perfect again. It's none of your business how I sharpened🤣🤣🤣🤣
I'm reading this while eating lunch after a morning in the shop. I'm working with oak and noticed that my plane wasn't cutting well. So I stopped and sharpened and it began to cut perfect again. It's none of your business how I sharpened🤣🤣🤣🤣and it doesn't matter!
Hi Vic, I enjoyed the piece very much. I just wanted to comment that I think the key difference in the obsession about sharpening is the difference between professionals who are doing it for the money and amateurs who have the luxury of time. I remember at fine woodworking live some years ago there was a presenter who restored high value furniture and he said that while the pieces look great outside if you turn the drawers over the work is quick and cheap. The reason is obvious.
Thanks Vic. Excellent and correct thoughts on sharpening that you make. Simply put, find a sharpening medium within your budget, get proficient at using it to consistently produce a very sharp edge, use a good guide if you prefer ( I do) and don’t switch methods around. Remember this, less is often more with sharpening as well as other things in life.
My old neighbour across the road (now deceased) was the epitome of this. He carried a pocket hone and when a tool got dull he would work it with the hone for about 30 seconds. He had a course and a fine in his shop apron.
I've read all the how to on sharpening and I've devolved to doing it by hand using muscle memory. Works amazingly well and yes, you can do a reasonable facsimile to how the machine calculates the angle, to make it work.
I still sharpen the old fashioned way sometimes, I set aside a "sharpening day" where I get out EVERYTHING and give it a good sharpen with the Japanese water stones.
Usually in the back yard on a sunny day, overlooking green space. It's a nice vibe and you can put on some tunes and enjoy it.
Actually, flat grinding does not necessarily leave more steel behind the edge. With a slight adjustment, you can make the angle at the edge the same with a hollow grind. And when you do, you now have more steel behind the hollow grind.
Welll, you have certainly given us much to think about. Sharpening is my least favorite thing to do, but it is equally the most important, and I do like a keen edge. I am a turner and an 18th century reenactor (although I consider myself to be more of a reendoer). That being said, my options for sharpening are quite limited. I use sandstone and slate slips and stropping. I have a 20 inch sandstone grinder but it is a lot of trouble to use. I mostly use slips and strops in a filing motion although on occasion l do drag an edge across a stone, mostly with plane irons.
As to sharpening for turning- 1. For dried and cured wood on electric lathes, 120 grit is the upper limit for grinding and honing because, friction. Friction causes heat which in turn buggers a very sharp edge as there is almost no metal there to dissipate the heat. Perhaps this is where I got my disdain for sharpening as I spent an awful lot of time trying to keep a good edge with small return for the time spent. 2. For turning green wood, as is necessary for using a pole lathe, good polished bevels and backs with well stropped faces is the limit. Scary sharp is, in any case, probably more a matter of one upmanship than practicality.
Great piece, Vic. Could not agree more. Finding a sharpening method that was quick and agreeable enough to sharpen OFTEN has been, by far, the biggest game changer for me. I'm much happier and productive with hand tools using my current method. Can I get my tools slightly sharper other ways? Yes. Does help my work? No. It's usually actually a net negative, in terms of time and enjoyment lost.
Thanks!
Amen. I'm still using my first set of stones, which require soaking .. I have a sink in my shop but that extra step is just enough to keep me from sharpening as often as I should. Stropping helps. But at some point I'll switch to spray-and-go.
And while I don't love to admit it, switching from a series of Eclipse guides (a Chinese clone, a Japanese clone, an authentic one) to the Lie-Nielsen guide made a huge difference in the quality and consistency of my edges. It really is worth the money, at least for me.
Eclipse clones can be made to work well, and are a great choice for budget-minded woodworkers. The L-N version maintains the simplicity of use with better quality. Both help to keep your sharpening consistent.
Yes, I learned to make the Eclipse work, but it took a lot of fettling/filing/fiddling. It was a relief to switch to something that just works.
I'm reading this while eating lunch after a morning in the shop. I'm working with oak and noticed that my plane wasn't cutting well. So I stopped and sharpened and it began to cut perfect again. It's none of your business how I sharpened🤣🤣🤣🤣
I'm reading this while eating lunch after a morning in the shop. I'm working with oak and noticed that my plane wasn't cutting well. So I stopped and sharpened and it began to cut perfect again. It's none of your business how I sharpened🤣🤣🤣🤣and it doesn't matter!
Amazing! And you’re right, it’s not my business how you got there. I’m just glad you did. 🙌
Hi Vic, I enjoyed the piece very much. I just wanted to comment that I think the key difference in the obsession about sharpening is the difference between professionals who are doing it for the money and amateurs who have the luxury of time. I remember at fine woodworking live some years ago there was a presenter who restored high value furniture and he said that while the pieces look great outside if you turn the drawers over the work is quick and cheap. The reason is obvious.
Good point! If you have the time and inclination, deep diving can be a lot of fun and informative.
Thanks Vic. Excellent and correct thoughts on sharpening that you make. Simply put, find a sharpening medium within your budget, get proficient at using it to consistently produce a very sharp edge, use a good guide if you prefer ( I do) and don’t switch methods around. Remember this, less is often more with sharpening as well as other things in life.
Cheers
Michael
My old neighbour across the road (now deceased) was the epitome of this. He carried a pocket hone and when a tool got dull he would work it with the hone for about 30 seconds. He had a course and a fine in his shop apron.
I've read all the how to on sharpening and I've devolved to doing it by hand using muscle memory. Works amazingly well and yes, you can do a reasonable facsimile to how the machine calculates the angle, to make it work.
I still sharpen the old fashioned way sometimes, I set aside a "sharpening day" where I get out EVERYTHING and give it a good sharpen with the Japanese water stones.
Usually in the back yard on a sunny day, overlooking green space. It's a nice vibe and you can put on some tunes and enjoy it.
You paint a peaceful picture of your sharpening days! Thanks for that.
Actually, flat grinding does not necessarily leave more steel behind the edge. With a slight adjustment, you can make the angle at the edge the same with a hollow grind. And when you do, you now have more steel behind the hollow grind.
Welll, you have certainly given us much to think about. Sharpening is my least favorite thing to do, but it is equally the most important, and I do like a keen edge. I am a turner and an 18th century reenactor (although I consider myself to be more of a reendoer). That being said, my options for sharpening are quite limited. I use sandstone and slate slips and stropping. I have a 20 inch sandstone grinder but it is a lot of trouble to use. I mostly use slips and strops in a filing motion although on occasion l do drag an edge across a stone, mostly with plane irons.
As to sharpening for turning- 1. For dried and cured wood on electric lathes, 120 grit is the upper limit for grinding and honing because, friction. Friction causes heat which in turn buggers a very sharp edge as there is almost no metal there to dissipate the heat. Perhaps this is where I got my disdain for sharpening as I spent an awful lot of time trying to keep a good edge with small return for the time spent. 2. For turning green wood, as is necessary for using a pole lathe, good polished bevels and backs with well stropped faces is the limit. Scary sharp is, in any case, probably more a matter of one upmanship than practicality.
Those are definitely some old school options. But if it works…
As well as ever I think.